**Nonlinear wave shoaling breaking and runup on
slopes/beaches
**

Mt. Fuji off Kanagawa by Katsushika Hokusai (1760-1849) (Thanks to CACR
!)
Three-dimensional wave computation by Grilli
et al. (2000)

**Background :
**With the increasingly clear risk of global warming, possibly
due to greenhouse effects, and resulting sea level rise due to icecap
melting,
coastal protection is becoming a problem of major concern in many countries
having large regions with low level coastal areas. In the US, the result
of a one-meter sea level rise scenario, as some forecasting studies predict
by the year 2,050, would be disastrous, not only in terms of lost land
area but the increased frequency of severely damaging storms for various
existing coastal developments (e.g., harbors, industries, real estate,
recreational beaches...).

As a result of these concerns, over the past decade, a renewal of
activity
has been stimulated in the coastal research community for developing more
accurate predictions of environmental forcing from waves and currents and
more reliable, and thus more economical, design methods under extreme wave
loading, for both artificially renourished beaches and structures used
for coastal protection. These are the main focuses of *coastal
engineering*.

Wave propagation studies start with predictions of wave characteristics in deep water, based on available or predicted wind data (hindcasting/forecasting). Deep water waves are then propagated over shallow water topography up to the shore where shoaling and breaking occur. In natural (or renourished) beaches, the momentum flux released by breaking waves creates set-up and surf-zone currents (longshore and cross-shore). These currents are the main forcing for littoral sediment transport and, ultimately, the cause of beach erosion and shoreline recession observed in many coastal environments (e.g. Rhode Island). On protected shorelines, waves (broken or unbroken) impinge on coastal structures (e.g., groins, jetties, seawalls, breakwaters,...) and induce hydrodynamic pressures and forces under which both the structure and its foundation must be stable.

Coastal structures are usually made of a combination of emerged and submerged rubble mound berms and, in some cases, of a capping vertical or slightly sloping seawall. Under extreme storm waves and simultaneous increase in Mean Water Level (MWL) due to storm surge (possibly worsened by sea level rise), capping seawalls can be subjected to direct impact loads from breaking waves. Hence, new design procedures must be developed to better estimate both the local (structural) and global stability against overturning of seawalls under extreme wave impact. Since beaches and most coastal structures are made of porous material, wave-induced flow and pore pressure transmission through porous media, are also topics of importance in coastal engineering research.

In all of the above problems, characteristics of breaking waves are the prime factors for predicting the magnitude of both littoral currents and impact forces on structures and/or flow through structures. Wave transformations up to breaking and littoral current generation are thus the objects of intense research in the coastal engineering/science academic and industrial community, as well as in federal agencies with branches dealing with nearshore problems (NRL, ONR, NSF, ARO,...). In addition, for the latter agencies affiliated with DOD, the gathering of data and information useful for littoral warfare is of great concern, due to its increasing importance to the defense community. A detailed knowledge, i.e. prediction, of characteristics of nearshore waves and currents and of their relationship with bottom topography (and vice versa), indeed, is required for the success of military operations in coastal regions, particularly in foreign lands for which little or no data is available.

Finally, coastal engineering must also deal with projects involving
water quality and environmental problems. Waves, currents, and sediment
transport effects on sewage outfalls, de-salination plant intakes, or oil
containment equipment, for instance, are but a few of the problems where
the fate of either solid or fluid contaminants must be predicted under
specified or forecast environmental conditions.

**Project summary :**

Since 1980, I have worked on developing and improving various numerical models of wave propagation in coastal areas. These models were tested and validated versus analytical and experimental results, and then used as tools to gain insight into coastal processes. The present project deals with the development of a numerical model for fully nonlinear water waves and wave-structure interaction. I started developing this model while working at the University of Delaware and continued upgrading it since joining URI. This model is considered as one of the most versatile models of its kind and has been/is used (or re-developed) at a few other Universities, both in the US and abroad (e.g., Caltech (Passadena), U. of Southern California (Los Angeles), U. of Cantabria (Santander, Spain), and U. of Toulon (France)). In its most recent applications, the model is being used as a tool (``numerical wave tank''), in combination with laboratory experiments, for investigating many different problems of interest to ocean engineering.

In 1991, I received funding from NSF and, in 1992 and 1993, from URI Seagrant for upgrading, further developing, and documenting this model. In 1994 and 1996, I received funding from NRL (ONR) to use this model as a tool to study nearshore wave propagation. Intensive computations of wave shoaling over slopes were conducted, to analyze shoaling properties of nonlinear waves over various specified nearshore bottom topographies. This has required developing and testing a new absorbing beach for the model.

The latest developments in this project deal with the so-called depth-inversion problem in shallow water. In this problem, one attempts to predict the shape of the ocean bottom based on observed properties of waves on the free surface (e.g., obtained through remote sensing). Most state-of-the-art methods are still based on using linear wave theory to predict wave properties. This, however, may be inaccurate in shallow water, due to strong wave nonlinearity. Using nonlinear properties of shoaling waves calculated in a fully nonlinear wave model, I developed two new depth-inversion algorithms and tested them on various mildly sloping bottoms. Preliminary results indicate a 3-10 factor improvement in accuracy, as compared to results obtained using linear wave theory.

At all stages of model developments, laboratory experiments were used for calibrating and verifying numerical results. These were generally obtained in collaboration with other institutions (e.g., U. of Delaware, and U. of Cantabria (Santander, Spain)).

**Funding history :**

- 1991-92 : Grant No. BCS-9111827 (PI with N. Kobayashi, $36,851) of the "National Science Foundation" (NSF) Engineering/Earthquake, Hazards and Mitigation Program, to support the : Documentation and Maintenance of a Numerical Software for Calculating Nonlinear Wave Runup.
- 1992-93 : Grant No. NA89AA/D/SG/082 (PI, $44,330) of the University of Rhode Island Sea Grant College Program, to support the study of : Breaking Waves on Beaches.
- 1994-95 : Grant No. N-00014-94-I-C607 (PI, $31,064) of the DOD U.S. Naval Research Laboratory (Stennis Space Center), Remote Sensing Division, to support the : Mapping of Nearshore Ocean Bottom Topography Through the Solution of Inverse Wave Propagation Problems.
- 1996-97 : Grant No. N-00014-96-C012 (PI, $49,987) of the DOD U.S. Naval Research Laboratory (Stennis Space Center), Remote Sensing Division : Determination of Nearshore Bottom Topography Through the Solution of Inverse Wave Propagation Problems.
- 1999-2000: Grant from Vibtech Inc. (PI, $15,000) to the Ocean Engineering Instrument System Laboratory, to support the : Building of an adjustable beach for wave tank tests of a causeway-FastShip system deployed in the surfzone.
- 1999-2001 : Grant No. N-00014-99-10439 (PI, $102,278) of the DOD Office of Naval Research (ONR) Ocean Science Division, to support the : Development and validation of depth-inversion algorithms for barred-beaches based on nonlinear properties of shoaling waves.
- 2001 : Gift-grant from U.S. Wave Energy Inc. (PI, $5,000) to the Ocean Engineering Coastal Engineering Laboratory, to support : Research in the area of Ocean Wave Energy uitlization.
- 2001 : Gift-grant from from Vibtech Inc. (PI, $3,000) to the Ocean Engineering Coastal Engineering Laboratory, to support : Wave tank tests of a causeway-FastShip system deployed in the surfzone.
- 2001-2003 : Grant No. N-00014-01-10349 (Co-PI, $249,985; URI subcontract for $50,000) of the DOD Office of Naval Research (ONR) Ocean Science Division, to support the : Studies of Mine Burial in Coastal Environment.
- 2003-2004 : Grant from Ocean Dynamics Inc. (PI, $172,506), to support : Hydrodynamic Modeling and Laboratory Experiments for the Harley SES FastShip.
- Grant (Co-PI, 2003-2004, $49,954) from RI Renewable Energy Office : Proposed Energetech wave power plant site off Pt Judith Harbor of Refuge.
- 2003-2004 : Grant of the DOD Office of Naval Research (ONR) Ocean Science Division (R. Street, PI, $175,581; URI subcontract for $37,668), to support : Large Eddy Simulation of Sediment Transport in the Presence of Surface Gravity Waves, Currents and Complex Bedforms.
- 2004-2005 : Grant No. N000140510068 of the DOD Office of Naval Research (ONR) Coastal Geosciences Division (code 321CG; S. Grilli, PI, $65,439), to support : Wave Induced Mine Burial and Sediment Transport in Coastal Environment. Wave modeling studies.
- 2004-2006 Grant (PI,$34,500) from the University of Rhode Island Partnership for Ocean Instrumentation (POI), to support : Development of an Inverted Echo Sounder for Surface and Internal Wave Measurements in Ocean and Coastal Observatories.
- 2005-2008 : Grant No. N000140510068 ( ) of the DOD Office of Naval Research (ONR) Coastal Geosciences Division (code 321CG; S. Grilli PI, $146,377), to support : Wave Induced Mine Burial and Sediment Transport in Coastal Environment : Wave and sediment transport modeling studies.
- 2007-2010 : Grant (Co-PI; $450,000) for implementing the "URI Partnership for Energy".
- 2008-2009 : Grant (Senior advisor; with Profs. A. Grilli, PI, and M.L. Spaulding; $40,000) of the Office of Naval research STTR Phase I Program : Ocean Energy Extraction for Sensor Applications.
- 2008-2010 : Grant (Co-PI with Profs. Spaulding, PI and A. Grilli, co-PI; budget item: $238,547) of the State of RI Office of Energy Resources : Wave/Wind Engineering studies in support of Ocean Special Area Management Plan (SAMP).
- 2009 : Gift grant of O'Neil Corporation to support : Ocean Engineering teaching and research in the general area of wave-structure interactions, including improving OCE's wavetank equipment and infrastructure (PI; $25,000).
- 2009-2010 : Grant (Co-PI with Profs. M.L. Spaulding, PI and A. Grilli, co-PI; $100,703) of the State of RI-STAC Alliance Program : Development of a Low Loss, Direct Drive Wave Energy Conversion Device to Power Coastal Surveillance Systems.
- 2009-2010 : Grant (PI ; $345,000) of the State of RI Office of Energy Resources : High Resolution Modeling of Meteorological, Hydrodynamic, Wave and Sediment processes in SAMP study area.
- 2009-2011 : Grant (Co-PI with Profs. M.L. Spaulding, PI and A. Grilli; $174,993) of the Office of Naval research STTR Phase II Program : Ocean Energy Extraction for Sensor Applications.
- 2009-2012 : Grant OCE-09-27014 (Co-PI with Prof. T. Hara PI, $527,391) of the ``National Sciences Foundation'' (NSF) Physical Oceanography Program : Generation of sea sprays and their impact on near surface turbulence and air-sea momentum flux.
- 2009-2010 : Grant OCE-09-40398 (Co-PI with Prof. T. Hara PI, and I. Ginis, Co-PI, $75,554) of the ``National Sciences Foundation'' (NSF) Physical Oceanography Program : Workshop on air-sea interactions under tropical cyclones (hurricanes).
- 2010-2011 : Grant (co-PI with Dr. Bart Goldstein from Advanced Scientific Concepts Inc. (Santa Barbara, CA); URI budget $24,499) of the Office of Naval research STTR Phase I Program : Mitigation of USV Motion via Wave Sensing ad Prediction.
- 2011-2012 : Grant (Co-PI with Profs. M.L. Spaulding, PI and A. Grilli; $105,128) of the Office of Naval research STTR Phase II Option Program : Ocean Energy Extraction for Sensor Applications.

**Recent key personnel at URI or in collaboration :**

- S.T. Grilli : Ph.D, Distinguished Professor in OE, Principal investigator.
- R. Subramanya : MS in OE, research associate 1992-94
- J. Horrillo : MS in OE, graduate research assistant 1994-1997
- P. Guyenne : Ph.D in OE 1999-2002
- S. Guignard : Post-doctoral associate 2000-2001
- C. Brandini : Ph.D in OE 1998-2000
- F. Enet : Ph.D student 2001-2005
- C. Fochesato : Ph.D in OE 2001-2004
- R. Gilbert : M.S. in OE 2003-2005
- J. Harris : M.S., Ph.D in OE and postdoc 2003-
- M. Schultz : M.S. in OE 2004-2005
- H.G. Sung : Post-doctoral associate 2004-2005
- J. Merrill : M.S. in OE, 2006-2007 (co-advisor)
- N. Greene : M.S. in OE, 2006-2008
- A. Bringer : M.S. in OE (University of Toulon), 2008-2009 (co-advisor)
- T. Asher : M.S. in OE, 2008-2010
- E. Guerber Ph.D in OE (Laboratoire St Venant), 2009-2011 (co-advisor)
- A. Banari : Ph.D student 2010-
- J. Montgomery : M.S. student 2011-

**Collaborations :**

- I.A. Svendsen : Ph.D, Professor, Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware (1987-1998)
- J. Skourup : Ph.D (1989), at the University of Delaware (1987-89)
- M.A. Losada : Ph.D, Professor, University of Cantabria, Santander (Spain) (1988-1995)
- A. Otta : Ph.D (1992), at the University of Delaware (1989-92)
- J.T. Kirby : Ph.D, Professor, Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware (1993-)
- Ph. Fraunie : Ph.D, Professor, V. Rey : Ph.D, Assistant Professor, and S. Guignard, Ph.D (2001), University of Toulon-Var, Institute for Sciences and Technology (La Garde, France) (1998-2004)
- F. Dias : Ph.D, Professor, and P. Guyenne, Ph.D (2000), Ecole Normal Superieure (Cachan, Paris, France) (1998-2007)
- R.L. Street : Ph.D, Professor, and E.A. Zedler, Ph. D., Stanford University (2003-2007)
- S. Abadie : Ph.D, Professor, University of Pau et des Pays de l'Adour, Anglet, France (2004-)
- S. Yim : Ph.D, Professor, Oregon State University (2006-)
- M. Krafczyk : Dr.Eng., Professor, Technical Univerity of Braunschweig, Germany (2007-)
- C. Janssen : Dr.Eng., Technical Univerity of Braunschweig and Hamburg, Germany (2009-)
- M. Benoit : Ph.D, Professor Universite de Paris Est et Chercheur au Laboratoire EDF de Chatou (2009-)
- T. Hara : Ph.D, Professor, Graduate School of Oceanography, University of Rhode Island (2010-)

**Publications :**

- Grilli, S.T., Skourup, J. and Svendsen, I.A. 1988 The Modeling of
Highly
Nonlinear Waves : A Step Toward the Numerical Wave Tank. In
*Proc. 10th Intl. Conf. on Boundary Elements*(BEM10, Southampton, England, September 88) (ed. C.A. Brebbia) Vol.**1**, pp. 549-564. Computational Mechanics Publication. Springer-Verlag, Berlin.(invited paper) - Skourup, J., Grilli, S.T. and Svendsen, I.A. 1988 Modeling of Steep
and Breaking Waves by the Boundary Element Method.
*Inst. Hydrodyn. and Hydraulic Engng., Technical University of Denmark, Progress Report No.***68,**59-71. - Grilli, S.T., Skourup, J. and Svendsen, I.A. 1989 An Efficient Boundary
Element Method for Nonlinear Water Waves.
*Engineering Analysis with Boundary Elements,***6**(2), 97-107. - Grilli, S.T. and Svendsen, I.A. 1989 Runup and Reflection of a Solitary
Wave on Steep Slopes in a Numerical Wave Tank. In
*Proc. 4th Intl. Workshop on Water Waves and Floating Bodies*(Oystese, Norway, May 89) (ed. J. Grue), pp. 77-82. Department of Mathematics, University of Oslo, Oslo.(invited paper) - Grilli, S.T. and Svendsen, I.A. 1990 Corner Problems and Global
Accuracy
in the Boundary Element Solution of Nonlinear Wave Flows.
*Engineering [pdf] (828K)Analysis with Boundary Elements,***7**(4), 178-195. - Grilli, S.T. and Svendsen, I.A. 1990 The Propagation and Runup of
Solitary
Waves on Steep Slopes.
*Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Research Report No.***91-4.** - Svendsen, I.A. and Grilli, S.T. 1990 Nonlinear Waves on Steep Slopes.
*Journal of Coastal Research,*``Special Issue on Rational Design of Mound Structures''**SI 7,**185-202. - Grilli, S.T. (guest ed.) 1990 Special Issue on Highly Nonlinear Waves.
*Engineering Analysis with Boundary Elements***7**(4). - Grilli, S.T. and Svendsen, I.A. 1990 Computation of Nonlinear Wave
Kinematics during Propagation and Runup on a Slope. Chapter in
*Water Wave Kinematics*(ed. A. Torum and O.T. Gudmestad), NATO ASI Series E: Applied Sciences Vol.**178,**387-412. Klüwer Academic Publishers. - Grilli, S.T., Svendsen, I.A. and Otta, A.K. 1990 Corner Effects Using
BEM for Nonlinear Waves. In
*Computational Engineering with Boundary Elements*(Proc. 5th Intl. Conf. on Boundary Element Technology, BETECH90, University of Delaware, USA, July 90) - Grilli, S.T. 1991 Modeling of Nonlinear Long Wave Transformation in
Coastal Areas. In
*Proc. 2nd Intl. Conf. on Computer Methods and Water Resources,*(Rabat, Morocco, October 91) (ed. D. Ouazar, D. Ben Sari and C.A. Brebbia) Vol.**2**, pp. 329-342. Computational Mechanics Publications, Springer-Verlag, Berlin.(invited keynote address) - Grilli, S.T. 1992 BEM Modelling of Wave Shoaling and Breaking.
*International Association for Boundary Element Methods Newsletter,***6,**4-5. - Otta, A.K., Svendsen, I.A. and Grilli, S.T. 1992 Unsteady Free Surface
Waves in a Region of Arbitrary Shape.
*Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Research Report No.***92-10,**153 pps. - Grilli, S.T., Losada, M.A., Martin, F. and Svendsen, I.A. 1992
Nonlinear
Shoaling and Impact of Waves on Coastal Structures. In
*Proc. 9th Engineering Mechanics Conf.*(College Station, Texas, May 92) (eds. L.D. Lutes and J.M. Niedzwecki), pp. 79-82. ASCE edition.(invited paper) - Grilli, S.T. and Subramanya, R. 1993 Nonlinear Wave Modeling in very
Shallow Water. In
*Proc. 15th Intl. Conf. on Boundary Elements in Engineering*(BEM15, Worcester, MA, August 1993) (ed. J. Rencis and C.A. Brebbia), Fluid Flow and Computational Aspects, pp. 194-206. Computational Mechanics Publications, Elsevier Applied Science. (invited paper) - Grilli, S.T. 1993 Modeling of Nonlinear Wave Motion in Shallow Water.
Chapter 3 in
*Computational Methods for Free and Moving Boundary Problems in Heat and Fluid Flow*(eds. L.C. Wrobel and C.A. Brebbia), pps. 37-65, Computational Mechanics Publication, Elsevier Applied Sciences, London, UK. - Grilli, S.T. and Subramanya, R. 1993 A Computer Program for Transient
Wave Runup.
*Center for Applied Coastal Research, University of Delaware, Research Report No.***93-02,**131 pps. - Otta, A.K., Svendsen, I.A. and Grilli, S.T. 1993 The Breaking and Runup
of Solitary Waves on Beaches. In
*Proc. 23rd Intl. Conf. on Coastal Engineering*(ICCE23, Venice, Italy, October 92) Vol.**2**, pps. 1461-1474. ASCE edition. - Grilli, S.T., Losada, M.A. and Martin, F. 1994. Characteristics of
Solitary Wave Breaking Induced by Breakwaters.
*Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering***120**(1), 74-92. [abstract] - Grilli, S.T. and Subramanya, R. 1994 Quasi-singular Integrations in
the Modelling of Nonlinear Water Waves.
*Engineering Analysis with Boundary Elements,***13**(2), 181-191. - Subramanya, R. and Grilli, S.T. 1994 Domain Regridding in the
Computation
of Nonlinear Waves. In
*Proc. 2nd Intl. Workshop on Bound. Elements in Fluid Mech.*(Southampton, UK, July 1994) (eds. H. Power, C.A. Brebbia and D.B. Ingham), pps. 139-150. Computational Mechanics Publications, Elsevier Applied Science. (invited paper). - Grilli, S.T., Subramanya, R., Kirby, J.T. and Wei, J. 1994 Comparison
of Modified Boussinesq and Fully Nonlinear Potential Models for Shoaling
Solitary Waves. In
*Proc. Intl. Symposium on Waves - Physical and Num. Modelling*(Vancouver BC, Canada, Aug. 1994) (eds. M. Isaacson & M. Quick), Vol.**1**, pps. 524-533, IAHR. - Subramanya, R. and Grilli, S.T. 1994 Kinematics and Properties of Fully
Nonlinear Waves Shoaling and Breaking over a Gentle Slope. In
*Proc. Intl. Symposium on Waves - Physical and Num. Modelling*(Vancouver BC, Canada, Aug. 1994) (eds. M. Isaacson and M. Quick), Vol.**2**, pps. 1106-1115, IAHR. - Grilli, S., Subramanya, R., Svendsen, I.A. and Veeramony, J. 1994
Shoaling
of Solitary Waves on Plane Beaches.
*Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering,***120**(6), 609-628. [abstract] - Grilli, S.T. and R. Subramanya 1995 Recent Advances in the BEM
Modelling
of Nonlinear Water Waves. Chapter 4 in
*Boundary Element Applications in Fluid Mechanics*(ed. H. Power), pps. 91-122. Advances in Fluid Mechanics Series. Computational Mechanics Publication, Southampton, UK. [abstract] - Wei, J., Kirby, J.T, Grilli, S.T. and Subramanya, R. 1995 A Fully
Nonlinear
Boussinesq Model for Surface Waves. Part1. Highly Nonlinear Unsteady Waves.
*Journal of Fluid Mechanics,***294,**71-92. [abstract] - Grilli, S.T. and Horrillo J. 1995 Numerical Modeling of Wave Breaking
on Beaches and over Coastal Structures. In
*Proc. 2nd. Intl. Conf. on Computer Modeling of Seas and Coastal Regions*(COASTAL95 Cancun, Mexico, September 1995)(eds. C.A. Brebbia, L. Traversoni and L.C. Wrobel), pps. 151-158. Computational Mechanics Publications, Boston. (invited paper). - Grilli, S.T., Subramanya, R., and Horrillo, J. 1995 A BEM model for
fully nonlinear waves shoaling and breaking over a slope. Presented at
the
*IABEM95 Intl. Symposium*(Mauna Lani, Hawaii, August 1995) - Grilli, S.T. and Subramanya, R. 1996 Numerical Modeling of Wave
Breaking
Induced by Fixed or Moving Boundaries.
*Computational Mechanics,***17**(6), 374-391. [abstract] [pdf] (2,300K) - Grilli, S.T., Svendsen, I.A. and Subramanya, R. 1997 Breaking Criterion
and Characteristics for Solitary Waves on Slopes.
*Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering***123**(3), 102-112 [abstract] [pdf file] (375K) - Grilli, S.T. and Horrillo, J. 1997 Exact periodic wave generation and
absorption for nonlinear wave computations.
*Journal of Engineering Mechanics,***123**(10), 1060-1069. [abstract] [pdf] (4,000K) - Grilli, S.T. and Horrillo J. 1997 Fully Nonlinear Properties of
Periodic
Waves Shoaling over Slopes. In
*Proc. 25th Intl. Conf. on Coastal Engineering*(ICCE25, Orlando, USA, September 96), Vol**1**, 717-730. ASCE Edition. [abstract] [pdf] (792K) - Grilli, S.T. 1997 Fully Nonlinear Potential Flow Models used for Long
Wave Runup Prediction. Chapter in
*Long-Wave Runup Models*(eds. H. Yeh, P. Liu, and C. Synolakis), pps. 116-180. World Scientific Publishing, Singapore. [abstract] [pdf] (3,800K) - Grilli, S.T. and Horrillo J. 1997 Fully Nonlinear Properties of
Shoaling
Periodic Waves Calculated in a Numerical Wave Tank. In
*Proc. 12th Intl. Workshop on Water Waves and Floating Bodies*(Carry-Le-Rouet, France, March 97), 4 pps. - Grilli, S.T. 1997 Free Surface Nonlinear Flows.
Section in
*1998 Mc Graw Hill Yearbook of Sciences and Technology*(a yearly supplement to the Encyclopedia of Sciences and Technology). Mc Graw Hill, pp. 134-136. -
Grilli, S.T. 1998 The depth inversion problem in shallow water.
In
*Proc. 3rd Intl. Intl. Sympos. on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis*(WAVES97, Virginia Beach, VA, USA, November 1997) (eds. B. Edge, &J.M. Hemsley), 701-715, ASCE Publication. [abstract] [compressed postcript] (155K) -
Grilli, S.T. and Horrillo, J. 1998 Computation of periodic wave shoaling
over barred-beaches in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank. In
*Proc. ISOPE98*(ISOPE98, Montreal, Canada, May 1998)(eds. Chung, J.S., Olagnon, M., Kim, C.H., Koterayama, W.), Vol.**III**, pps. 294-300. Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng., Golden Colorado. [compressed postcript] (247K). -
Grilli, S.T. 1998 Depth Inversion in Shallow Water Based on
Nonlinear Properties of Shoaling Periodic Waves.
*Coastal Engineering,***35**(3), 185-209 [pdf] (604K). -
Grilli, S.T., Svendsen,
I.A. and Subramanya, R. 1998 Closure of : Breaking Criterion and
Characteristics
for Solitary Waves on Slopes.
*Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering,***124**(6), 333-335. -
Grilli, S.T. and Skourup, J. 1998
Depth inversion for nonlinear waves shoaling over a barred-beach.
In
*Proc. 26th Intl. Conf. on Coastal Engineering*(ICCE26, Copenhagen, Denmark, June 1998), 603-616 [pdf] (216K). -
Guignard, S., Grilli, S.T., Marcer, R. and Rey, V. Computation of
shoaling and breaking waves in nearshore areas by the coupling of BEM and
VOF methods. In
*Proc. 9th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE99, Brest, France, May 1999), Vol.**III**, 304-309 [pdf] (3,300K). -
Grilli, S.T. and Horrillo, J. 1999 Shoaling of periodic waves over
barred-beaches
in a fully nonlinear numerical wave tank.
*Intl. Journal of Offshore and Polar Engineering,***9**(4), 257-263 [pdf] (1,000K). -
Grilli, S.T., Guyenne, P. and F., Dias. 2000
Numerical computation of 3D overturning waves. Abstract
in
*Proc. 15th Workshop on Water Waves and Floating Bodies*(Dan Caesarea, Israel, February 2000), 4pps [pdf file] (140K). -
Grilli, S.T., Guyenne, P. and Dias, F. 2000
Modeling of overturning waves over arbitrary bottom in a 3D numerical wave
tank. In
In
*Proc. 10th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE00, Seattle, USA, May 2000), Vol.**III**, 221-228 [compressed postcript] (104K). -
Brandini, C. and S.T., Grilli. 2000 Sul Focusing delle Onde di Gravita in un
Dominio Tridimensionale. In
*Proc. XXVII Convegno di Idraulica e Costruzioni Idrauliche*(IDRA2000, Genova, Italy, September 2000), 8 pps. -
Brandini, C. and S.T., Grilli. 2001 Evolution of
three-dimensional unsteady wave modulations.
*Proc. ROGUE WAVES 2000 Workshop*(Brest, France, November 2000), 275-282. [compressed pdf] (2,110K). -
Grilli, S.T., Guyenne, P. and F., Dias.
Numerical modeling of fully nonlinear 3D
overturning waves over arbitrary bottom. Abstract
accepted for
*27th Intl. Conf. on Coastal Engineering*(ICCE27, Sidney, Australia, July 2000) -
Brandini, C. and S.T. Grilli. Sul Focusing delle Onde di Gravita in un
Dominio Tridimensionale. To appear in
*Proc. XXVII Convegno di Idraulica e Costruzioni Idrauliche*(IDRA2000, Genova, Italy, September 2000), 8pps. -
Grilli, S.T., Guyenne, P. and Dias, F. 2001 A fully nonlinear model
for three-dimensional overturning waves over arbitrary bottom.
*International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids,***35**(7), 829-867. [pdf file] (604K). -
Brandini, C. and S.T., Grilli 2001
Modeling of freak wave generation in a 3D-NWT.
In
*Proc. 11th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE01, Stavanger, Norway, June 2001), Vol III, 124-131 [pdf file] (2,450K). -
Guignard, S. and S.T., Grilli. 2001 Modeling of shoaling and
breaking waves in a 2D-NWT by using a spilling breaker model.
*Proc. 11th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE01, Stavanger, Norway, June 2001), Vol III, 116-123. [pdf file] (484K). -
Guignard, S. and S.T., Grilli 2002 Implementation and validation of a breaker model in a fully
nonlinear wave propagation model. In
*Proc. 4th Intl. Symp. on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis*(WAVES 2001, San Francisco, USA, Sept. 2001) 1,012-1,021, ASCE Publication [pdf file] (360K). -
Guyenne, P., Grilli, S.T. and Dias, F. 2002 Three-dimensional numerical model for fully nonlinear
waves over arbitrary bottom. In
*Proc. 4th Intl. Symp. on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis*(WAVES 2001, San Francisco, USA, Sept. 2001) 1,072-1,081, ASCE Publication [pdf file] (344K). -
Brandini, C. and Grilli, S.T. 2002 Three-dimensional wave focusing
in fully nonlinear wave models. In
*Proc. 4th Intl. Symp. on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis*(WAVES 2001, San Francisco, USA, Sept. 2001) 1,102-1,111, ASCE Publication [pdf file] (2,700K). - Biausser, B., Grilli, S.T., Marcer, R. and Fraunie, P., 2003 Numerical
Analysis of the Internal Kinematics and Dynamics of 3D Breaking
Waves on Slopes. In
*Proc. 18th Workshop on Water Waves and Floating Bodies*(Nantes, France, Avril 2003), 6 pps. [pdf file] (192K). - Biausser, B., Grilli, S.T. and Fraunie, P., 2003 Numerical Simulations of
Three-dimensional Wave Breaking by Coupling of a VOF Method and A Boundary
Element Method.
In
*Proc. 13th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE03, Honolulu, USA, May 2003), 333-339. [pdf file] (1,100K) - Biausser, B., Grilli, S.T. and Fraunie, P., 2003 Numerical Analysis of the
Internal Kinematics and Dynamics of Three-Dimensional Breaking Waves on Slopes.
In
*Proc. 13th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE03, Honolulu, USA, May 2003), 340-346. [pdf file] (2,500K) - Guyenne, P. and Grilli, S.T., 2003 Computations of 3D Overturning Waves
in Shallow Water. In
*Proc. 13th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE03, Honolulu, USA, May 2003), 347-352. [pdf file] (552K) - Lachaume, C., Biausser, B., Grilli, S.T., Fraunie, P. and Guignard, S. 2003
Modeling of breaking and post-breaking
waves on slopes by coupling of BEM and VOF methods.
In
*Proc. 13th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE03, Honolulu, USA, May 2003), 353-359. [pdf file] (900K) - Fochesato, C., Dias, F., and Grilli, S.T., 2003. Numerical Model Using
the Fast Multipole Algorithm for
Nonlinear Three-dimensional Free Surface Waves over Arbitrary Bottom. In
*Proc. 13th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE03, Honolulu, USA, May 2003). - Grilli, S.T., Voropayev, S., Testik, F.Y. and Fernando, H.J.S., 2003.
Numerical Modeling and Experiments of Wave Shoaling over Buried Cylinders
in Sandy Bottom. In
*Proc. 13th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE03, Honolulu, USA, May 2003), 405-412. [pdf file] (448K) - Fochesato C., Dias F. and Grilli S.T. 2003. Modèle Numérique
Tridimensionnel
pour les Ondes de Surface sur un Fond Quelconque. In
*Proc. 9th Journées de l'Hydrodynamique*, (Nantes, France) pp. 355-367. - Grilli, S.T., Gilbert, R., Lubin, P., Vincent, S., Legendre, D.,
Duvam, M., Kimmoun, O., Branger, H., Devrard, D., Fraunie, P.,
Abadie, S. 2004 Numerical modeling and experiments for solitary wave
shoaling and breaking over a sloping beach. In
*Proc. 14th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE04, Toulon, France, May 2004), 306-312. [pdf file] (472K). - Biausser B., S.T. Grilli, Fraunie P. and Marcer, R. 2004. Numerical analysis of the
internal kinematics and dynamics of three-dimensional breaking waves on
slopes.
*Intl. J. Offshore and Polar Engng.*,**14**(4), 247-256. [pdf file] (5,000K). - Fochesato, C., Grilli, S.T. and Guyenne P. 2005. Note on non-orthogonality of local
curvilinear co-ordinates in a three-dimensional boundary element method.
*Intl. J. Numer. Meth. In Fluids*,**48**, 305-324 [pdf file] (316K). - Sung H.G. and Grilli S.T., 2005. A Note on Accuracy and Convergence of a Third-order Boundary
Element Method for Three Dimensional Nonlinear Free Surface Flows.
*J. Ships and Ocean Engineering*,**40**, 31-41. [pdf file] (772K). - Helluy Ph., Golay F., Caltagirone J.-P., Lubin P., Vincent S., Drevard D.,
Marcer R., Seguin N., Grilli S., Lesage A.-C. and Dervieux A. 2005.
Numerical simulations of wave breaking.
*Math. Modeling and Numer. Analys.*,**39**(3), 591-607. [pdf file] (372K). - Sung H.G. and Grilli S.T. 2005. Numerical Modeling of Nonlinear Surface
Waves caused by Surface Effect Ships. Dynamics and Kinematics.
In
*Proc. 15th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE05, Seoul, South Korea, June 2005),**3**, 124-131. [pdf file] (2,000K). - Fochesato C., Dias F. and Grilli S.T. 2005.
Wave energy focusing in a three-dimensional numerical wave tank.
In
*Proc. 15th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE05, Seoul, South Korea, June 2005),**3**, 24-31. [pdf file] (1,200K). - Gilbert R.W., Zedler E.A., Grilli S.T. and Street R.L.,
2005. Modelling of Wave-Driven Sediment Transport in the Shoaling Zone.
In
*Proc. 5th Intl. Symp. on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis*(WAVES 2005, Madrid, Spain, July 2005), IAHR Publication, paper 121, 10 pps. [pdf file] (376K). - Grilli S.T., Fochesato C. and Dias F.,
2005. Wave Energy Focusing in a Three-dimensional Numerical Wavetank.
In
*Proc. 5th Intl. on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis*(WAVES 2005, Madrid, Spain, July 2005), IAHR Publication, paper 197, 10 pps. [pdf file] (2,000K). - Devrard D., Marcer R., Grilli S.T., Fraunie P. and Rey V.,
2005. Experimental Validation of a Coupled BEM-Navier-Stokes Model for
Solitary Wave Shoaliing and Breaking.
In
*Proc. 5th Intl. on Ocean Wave Measurement and Analysis*(WAVES 2005, Madrid, Spain, July 2005), IAHR Publication, paper 166, 10 pps. [pdf file] (300K). - Fochesato C., Dias F. and Grilli S.T. 2005. Wave Energy
Focusing in a Three-dimensional Numerical Wavetank. In
*Proc. Rogue Waves 2004 Conf.*(Brest, France, June 2004). [pdf file] (1,100K). - Guyenne, P. and Grilli, S.T. 2006. Numerical study of three-dimensional
overturning waves in shallow water.
*J. Fluid Mechanics***547**, 361-388. [pdf file] (1,600K). - Sung H.G. and Grilli S.T. 2006. Combined Eulerian-Lagrangian
or Pseudo-Lagrangian
Descriptions of Waves Caused by an Advancing Free Surface Disturbance.
In
*Proc. 16th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE06, San Francisco, California, June 2006),**3**, 487-494. [pdf file] (1.4M). - Corte, C. and Grilli S.T. 2006. Numerical Modeling of Extreme
Wave Slamming on Cylindrical Offshore Support Structures.
In
*Proc. 16th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE06, San Francisco, California, June 2006),**3**, 394-401. [pdf file] (428K). - Fochesato Ch. and Grilli, S.T. and Dias F. 2007. Numerical
modeling of extreme rogue waves generated by directional energy focusing.
*Wave Motion*, doi:10.1016/j.wavemoti.2007.01.03 ,**44**, 395-416. [pdf file] (1.4M). - Gilbert R.W., Zedler E.A., Grilli S.T., and Street R.L. 2007.
Progress on Nonlinear-Wave-Forced Sediment Transport Simulation.
*IEEE J. of Oceanic Engng.*,**32**(1), 236-248, doi:10.1109/JOE.2007.890979. [pdf file] (748K). - Grilli, A., R., Merrill, J., Grilli, S.T., Spaulding, M.L., and Cheung,
J.T. 2007. Experimental and numerical study of spar buoy-magnet/spring
oscillators used as wave energy absorbers.
*Proc. 17th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE07, Lisbon, Portugal, July 2007), 489-496. [pdf file] (1.4M). - Harris, J.C., and Grilli S.T. 2007. Computation of the wavemaking resistance of a Harley
surface effect ship.
*Proc. 17th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE07, Lisbon, Portugal, July 2007), 3732-3739. [pdf file] (1.0M). - Harris, J., and Grilli, S.T.,
2007. Validating a perturbation approach to the large eddy
simulation of wave induced sediment transport,
*EOS Trans. AGU*,**88**(52), Fall Meet. Suppl., Abstract H51I-0885. - Pomeau, Y., M. Le Berre, P. Guyenne and S.T. Grilli 2008.
Wave breaking and generic singularities of
nonlinear hyperbolic equations.
*Nonlinearity,***21**, T61-T79, doi: 10.1088/0951-7715/21/5/T01. [pdf] (364K). - Pomeau Y., Le Bars M., Le Gal P., Jamin T., Le Berre M., Guyenne Ph.,
Grilli S.T. and Audoly B. 2008.
Sur le deferlement des vagues (Comptes-rendus de la 11eme
Rencontre du Non-lineaire, Paris, 2008), p. 155. In
*Publications Non-lineaires*(pnl@lps.u-psud.fr). [pdf] (460K). - Grilli, S.T. 2008. On the Development and Application of Hybrid Numerical
Models in Nonlinear Free Surface Hydrodynamics.
Keynote lecture in
*Proc. 8th Intl. Conf. on Hydrodynamics*(Nantes, France, September 2008) (P. Ferrant and X.B. Chen, eds.), pps. 21-50. ICHD2008 Local Organizing Committee Publications. [pdf] (3.2Mb). - Sung H.G. and Grilli, S.T. 2008. BEM Computations of 3D Fully Nonlinear
Free Surface Flows Caused by Advancing Surface Disturbances.
*Intl. J. Offshore and Polar Engng.*,**18**(4), 292-301. [pdf] (1,200K). - Grilli, S.T., Harris, J. and N. Greene 2009. Modeling of Wave-induced
Sediment Transport around Obstacles. In
*Proc. 31st Intl. Coastal Engng. Conf.*(J. Mc Kee Smith, ed.) (ICCE08, Hamburg, Germany, September, 2008), pps. 1,638-1,650. World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd. [pdf] (1.1Mb). - Grilli , S.T., Dias, F., Guyenne, P., Fochesato, C. and F.
Enet 2009.
Progress In Fully Nonlinear Potential Flow Modeling Of 3D Extreme Ocean
Waves. Chapter 3 in
*Advances in Numerical Simulation of Nonlinear Water Waves*(ISBN: 978-981-283-649-6, edited by Q.W. Ma) (Vol. 11 in Series in Advances in Coastal and Ocean Engineering). World Scientific Publishing Co. Pte. Ltd., pps. 75- 128. [pdf] (8.6Mb). - Guerber, E., M. Benoit, C. Buvat, S.T. Grilli, and C. Kassiotis 2010.
Numerical modeling of fully nonlinear interactions
of ocean waves with a submerged moving body. Abstract for Modeling of Fully Nonlinear Wave Interactions with Moving Submerged StructuresModeling of Fully Nonlinear Wave Interactions with Moving Submerged Structures. In Proc.
*4th European Conf. on Computational Mechanics*(ECCM2010, Palais des Congrès, Paris, France, May 16-21,2010). - Guerber, E., M. Benoit, S.T. Grilli, C. Buvat 2010.
Modélisation non-linéaire des interactions des vagues
avec un corps mobile immergé. In
*Proc. XIème Journées Nationales Génie Côtier Génie Civil*(Sables d'Olonne, France, June 22-24, 2010), pps. 783-794, www.paralia.fr/jngcgc-2010.htm. [pdf] (131kb). - Guerber, E., M. Benoit, S.T. Grilli, and C. Buvat, S.T. 2010.
Modeling of Fully Nonlinear Wave Interactions with Moving Submerged Structures.
In
*Proc. 20th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE10, Beijing, China, June 20-25, 2010), pps. 529-536. Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng. [pdf] (623kb). - Guerber, E., M. Benoit, S.T. Grilli, and C. Buvat, S.T. 2010.
Numerical study of nonlinear effects on the two-dimensional dynamics of a submerged wave-energy converter.
In
*Proc. 12th Journées de l'Hydrodynamique.*(Nantes, France, November 17-19, 2010) [pdf] (569kb). - Harris J.C. and S.T. Grilli 2010.
Coupling of NWT and large-eddy simulation for wave-induced
sediment transport.
In
*Proc. 20th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE10, Beijing, China, June 20-25, 2010), pps. 578-585. Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng. [pdf] (946kb). - Janssen C.F., S.T. Grilli and M. Krafczyk 2010.
Modeling of Wave Breaking and Wave-Structure Interactions by Coupling of Fully Nonlinear Potential
Flow and Lattice-Boltzmann Models.
In
*Proc. 20th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE10, Beijing, China, June 20-25, 2010), pps. 686-693. Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng. [pdf] (385kb). - Mokrani C., S. Abadie, S.T. Grilli and K. Zibouche 2010.
Numerical Simulation of the impact of a plunging breaker on a vertical structure and subsequent overtopping event using a
Navier-Stokes VOF model.
In
*Proc. 20th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE10, Beijing, China, June 20-25, 2010), pps. 729-736. Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng. [pdf] (659kb). - Grilli, S.T., Voropayev, S., Testik, F.Y. and Fernando, H.J.S.,
Numerical modeling and experiments of periodic waves shoaling
over semi-buried cylinders in sandy bottom.
*Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering*(in revision). [pdf file] (540K). - Grilli, S.T., C.-A. Guérin and B. Goldstein 2011.
Ocean wave reconstruction algorithms based on spatio-temporal data acquired by a flash LIDAR camera.
In
*Proc. 21st Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE11, Maui, HI, USA, June 19-24, 2011), pps. 275-282, Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng. [pdf] (360kb). - Grilli, S.T., A.R. Grilli, S.P. Bastien, R.B. Sepe, Jr., M.L. Spaulding
2011. Small
Buoys for Energy Harvesting : Experimental and Numerical Modeling
Studies. In
*Proc. 21st Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE11, Maui, HI, USA, June 19-24, 2011), pps. 598-605, Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng. [pdf] (348kb). - Harris, J.C. and S.T.
**Grilli**2012. A perturbation approach to large-eddy simulation of wave-induced bottom boundary layer flows.*Intl. J. Numer. Meth. Fluids*,**68**, 1,574-1,604, doi:10.1002/fld.2553 (published online 4/1/11). - Shi, F., J.T. Kirby, J.C. Harris, J.D. Geiman and S.T. Grilli 2012.
A High-Order Adaptive Time-Stepping TVD Solver for
Boussinesq Modeling of Breaking Waves and Coastal
Inundation.
*Ocean Modeling*,**43-44**, 36-51, doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2011.12.004. - Guerber, E., M. Benoit, S.T. Grilli and C. Buvat 2012.
A fully nonlinear implicit model for wave interactions
with submerged structures in forced or free motion.
*Engng. Analysis with Boundary Elemts.*,**36**, 1,151-1,163, doi:10.1016/j.enganabound.2012.02.005. - Janssen, C.F., S.T. Grilli and Krafczyk, M. 2012.
Efficient simulations of long wave propagation and runup using a
LBM approach on GPGPU hardware.
In
*Proc. 22nd Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE12, Rodos, Greece, June 17-22, 2012), Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng., 145-152. [pdf] (870kb). - Nimmala, S.B., S.C. Yim and S.T. Grilli 2012.
An Efficient 3D-FNPF Numerical Wave Tank
for virtual Large-Scale Wave Basin Experiments. In
*Proc. 31st Intl. Conf. on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engineering*(OMAE2012, Rio de Janeiro, July 1-6, 2012), paper No. 83760, 8pps. [pdf] (287kb). - Nougquier F., Grilli S.T. and C.A. Guérin 2012. Reconstruction and prediction of sea surface state with
spatio-temporal observations of the sea surface by a LIDAR camera.
*Proc. 13th Journées Hydrodynamiques*(Chatou, France, Nov. 21-23, 2012), 12 pps. [pdf] (421kb). - Janssen, C.F., S.T. Grilli and M. Krafczyk 2013. On enhanced non-linear free surface
flow simulations with a hybrid LBM-VOF approach.
*Computers and Mathematics with Applications*,**65**(2), 211-229 doi:10.1016/j.camwa.2012.05.012 (published online 7/12/12).. - Kirby, J.T., Shi, F., Tehranirad, B., Harris, J.C. and Grilli, S.T. 2013.
Dispersive tsunami waves in the ocean: Model equations and sensitivity to dispersion and Coriolis effects.
*Ocean Modeling*,**62**, 39-55, doi:10.1016/j.ocemod.2012.11.009 . - Nimmala, S.B., S.C. Yim and S.T. Grilli 2013.
An Efficient Parallelized 3-D FNPF Numerical Wave Tank for Large-Scale Wave Basin Experiment Simulation.
*J. Offshore Mech. and Arctic Engng.*,**135**(2), 021104, 10 pps., doi:10.1115/1.4007597 . - Banari A., Grilli S.T. and Janssen C. 2013. An improved two-phase lattice Boltzmann model for high density ratios: application to wave breaking. In
*Proc. ASME 32nd Intl. Conf. on Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engng.*(OMAE2013, June 9-14, 2013, Nantes, France), paper No. 10102, 9 pps. [pdf] (4.7Mb). - Gemme, D.A., Bastien, S.P., Sepe R.B., Montgomery J., Grilli S.T. and Grilli A.R.
2013. Experimental Testing and Model Validation for Ocean
Wave Energy Harvesting Buoys. In
*Proc. IEEE Energy Conversion Congress and Exposition*(ECCE13, Denver CO, September, 2013), paper 1407, 337-343 [pdf] (1.8Mb). - Nouguier, F., Grilli, S.T., and C.-A. Guérin 2013. Nonlinear ocean wave reconstruction algorithms based on simulated spatiotemporal data aquired by a Flash LIDAR camera. In
*Proc. 3rd Intl. Conf. on Ocean and Coastal Observation: Sensors and observing systems, numerical models and information.*(OCOSS; Nice, France, October 2013) (ed. T.J. Tanzi, J.-P. Damiano and J. Isnard), pps. 267-270. - Nouguier F., Grilli S.T. and C.-A. Guérin 2014. Nonlinear
ocean wave reconstruction algorithms based on spatiotemporal data acquired by a flash LIDAR camera.
*IEEE Transactions on Geoscience and Remote Sensing*,**52**(3), 1761-1771, doi:10.1109/TGRS.2013.2254494 (published online 5/29/13). - Banari A., Janssen C., Grilli S.T. and M. Krafczyk 2014. Efficient GPGPU implementation of a Lattice Boltzmann Model for multiphase flows with high density ratios.
*Computers and Fluids*, 66 pps., doi: 10.1016/j.compfluid.2014.01.004 (published online 1/18/14). - Banari A., Janssen C.F., and Grilli S.T. 2014. An efficient lattice Boltzmann multiphase model for 3D flows with large density ratios at high Reynolds numbers.
*Computers and Mathematics with Applications*,**68**, 1819-1843, doi:10.1016/j.camwa.2014.10.009 (published online 11/1/14). - Harris J.C. and Grilli, S.T. 2014. Large eddy simulation of sediment transport over rippled beds.
*Nonlin. Processes Geophys.*,**21**, 1,169-1,184, doi:10.5194/npg-21-1169-2014 (open access). - Harris, J.C., Dombre, E., Benoit, M. and S.T. Grilli 2014. Fast integral equation methods for fully nonlinear water wave modeling. In
*Proc. 24th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE14, Busan, South Korea, June 2014), Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng., pps. 583-590. [pdf] [pdf] - Harris J.C., Dombre E., Benoit M. and Grilli S.T. 2014. A comparison of methods in fully nonlinear boundary element numerical wave tank development.
*Proc. 14th Journées Hydrodynamiques*(Val de Reuil, France, Nov. 18-20, 2014), 13 pps. [pdf] (1.1Mb). - Dombre E., Benoit M., Violeau D., Peyrard C. and Grilli S.T. 2015.
Simulation of floating structure dynamics in waves by implicit coupling of a fully nonlinear potential flow model and a rigid body motion approach.
*Journal of Ocean Engineering and Marine Energy*,**1**, 55-76 doi: 10.1007/s40722-014-0006-y (published online 11/13/14). - Banari A., Mauzole Y., Hara T., Grilli S.T. and C.F. Janssen 2015. The simulation of turbulent particle-laden channel flow by the
Lattice Boltzmann method.
*International Journal for Numerical Methods in Fluids*, 23 pps., doi: 10.1002/fld.4058 (published online 06/16/15). - Hashemi, M.R., Grilli, S.T. and S.P. Neill, 2016. A simplified method to estimate tidal current effects on the ocean wave power resource.
*Renewable Energy*,**96**, 257-269 doi:10.1016/j.renene.2016.04.073 (published online 5/6/2016; open access) - Hashemi M.R., Grilli S.T., Neill S.P. and A.G. Davies 2016. Modelling the impact of a tidal stream array on bed load sediment transport. Presented at the
*14th Estuarine and Coastal Modeling Conference (ECM14)*(June 13-15, Kingston, RI, USA). - Schambach L., Grilli A.R., Hashemi M.H., King J. and S.T. Grilli 2016. Modeling the impact of historical storms on the Rhode Island shoreline. Presented at the
*ASBPA 2016 National Coastal Conference*(Long Branch, NJ, 10/16). - O'Reilly C.M., Grilli S.T., Harris J.C., Mivehchi A., Janssen C.F. and J. Dahl 2016. Development of a hybrid LBM-potential flow model for Naval Hydrodynamics. In
*Proc. 15th Journée de l'hydrodynamique (JH2016)*(November 22-24, Brest, France), 15pps. [pdf] (2Mb). - Harris J.C., Dombre E., Mivehchi A., Benoit M., Grilli S.T. and
C. Peyrard 2016. Progress in fully nonlinear wave modeling for wave-structure interaction. In
*Proc. 15th Journée de l'hydrodynamique (JH2016)*(November 22-24, Brest, France), 12pps. [pdf] (2.3Mb). - Mivehchi A., J.C. Harris, S.T. Grilli, J.M. Dahl, C.M. O'Reilly, K. Kuznetsov and C.F. Janssen 2017. A hybrid solver based on efficient BEM-potential and LBM-NS models: recent BEM developments and applications to naval hydrodynamics. In
*Proc. 27th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE17, San Francsico, USA. June 2017), Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng., pps. 721-728 [pdf]. - O'Reilly C.M., S.T. Grilli, J.C. Harris, A. Mivehchi, C.F. Janssen and J.M. Dahl 2017. A Hybrid Solver Based on Efficient BEM-potential and LBM-NS Models: Recent LBM Developments and
Applications to Naval Hydrodynamics. In
*Proc. 27th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE17, San Francsico, USA. June 2017), Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng., pps. 713-720 [pdf]. - Harris J.C., K. Kuznetsov, C. Peyrard, A. Mivehchi, S.T. Grilli and M. Benoit 2017. Simulation of wave forces on a gravity based foundation by a BEM based on fully nonlinear potential flow. In
*Proc. 27th Offshore and Polar Engng. Conf.*(ISOPE17, San Francsico, USA. June 2017), Intl. Society of Offshore and Polar Engng., pps. 1,033-1,040 [pdf]. - Schambach, L., Grilli, A.R., Grilli, S.T., Hashemi, M.R., and J. King 2017. Assessing the impact of extreme storms on barrier beaches along the Atlantic coastline : Application to the southern Rhode Island coast.
*Coastal Engineering*,**133**, 26-42, doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2017.12.004 (published online 12/21/17). - Mivehchi A., S.T. Grilli, J.M. Dahl, C.M. O'Reilly, J.C. Harris, K. Kuznetsov and C.F. Janssen 2017. Hybrid fully nonlinear BEM-LBM numerical wave tank with applications in naval hydrodynamics.
*Bulletin of the American Physical Society*, 62, doi:http://meetings.aps.org/link/BAPS.2017.DFD.Q31.10. - Desmars, N., Pérignon, Y., Ducrozet, G., Guérin C.-A., Grilli, S.T. and P. Ferrant 2018. Phase-resolved reconstruction algorithm and deterministic prediction of nonlinear ocean waves from spatio-temporal optical measurements. In
*Proc. ASME 2018 Intl. Conf. Ocean, Offshore and Arctic Engng.*(OMAE 2018, Madrid, Spain, June 17-22, 2018), Paper 78367, 12 pps. [pdf] - Harris J.C., O'Reilly C.M., Mivehchi A., Kuznetsov K., Janssen C.F., Grilli S.T. and J.M. Dahl 2018. Hybrid modeling of wave structure interaction with overlapping viscous-inviscid domains. Accepted for presentation at the
*33rd Intl. Workshop Water Waves and Floating Bodies*(IWWWFB18, Guidel-Plages, France, April 4-7, 2018), 4 pps. - Kuznetsov K., Harris J.C., Peyrard C., Mivehchi A., Grilli S.T. and M. Benoit 2018). Development of Numerical Wave Tank Using Boundary
Element Method with Cubic B-splines.
*Geophysical Research Abstract*,**20**, EGU2018-19842, European Geophysical Union General Assembly meeting (EGU, Vienna, Austria. April 2018). - Grilli A.R., Westcott G., Grilli S.T., Kirby J.T. and F. Shi 2018. Individual wave effects on coastal structure damage during windstorms. Accepted for presentation at the
*36th Intl. Conf. on Coastal Engng.*(ICCE18; Baltimore, Jul 30 - Aug 3), ASCE. - Grilli, S.T., Dahl, J.M., Grilli, A.R. and S.C. Steele 2018. Real-time sea-state estimation from inertial measurements of a ship's motions. In
*Proc. 16th Journée de l'hydrodynamique (JH2018)*(November 27-29, Marseille, France), 12 pps. [pdf]. - Desmars, N., Pérignon, Y., Ducrozet, G., Guérin C.-A., Grilli, S.T. and P. Ferrant 2018. Phase-resolved prediction of nonlinear ocean wave fields from remote optical measurements. In
*Proc. 16th Journée de l'hydrodynamique (JH2018)*(November 27-29, Marseille, France), 13 pps. [pdf]. - Torres, M.J. , Hashemi, M.R., Hayward, S. , Spaulding, M.L., Ginis, I. and S.T. Grilli 2019. Role of hurricane wind models in accurate simulation of storm surge and waves.
*J. Waterways, Port, Coastal Engng.*,**145**(1), 04018039, doi:10.1061/(ASCE)WW.1943-5460.0000496 (published online 11/15/18). - Hayward S., Hashemi M.R., Torres M., Grilli A.R., Grilli S.T., King J., Baxter C. and M.L. Spaulding 2018. Numerical simulation of coastal erosion and its mitigation by living shoreline methods: case study in southern Rhode Island.
*J. American Shore and Beach Preservation Assoc.*,**86**(4), 13-25.[pdf] - Al Naser N., Grilli A.R., Grilli S.T., Baxter C., Bradshaw A. and B. Maggi 2018. Land use and mitigation effects on barrier beach erosion in storms case study in RI. In
*Proc. 36th Intl. Conf. on Coastal Engng.*(ICCE18; Baltimore, Jul 30 - Aug 3), ASCE, 15 pps. [pdf] (in press). - Grilli A.R., S.T. Grilli, G. Westcott, T. Inkley, F. Shi, J.T. Kirby 2018.
Assessing extreme storm risk using a fully-nonlinear phase resolving wave model combined with an erosion model. In
*AGU Fall Meeting Abstract*,**OS53A-03**(oral presentation). - Grilli S.T., Derakhti M., Kirby J.T. 2018. A unified formulation for predicting the breaking onset of gravity water waves from deep to shallow water: validation cases using a fully nonlinear potential flow model. In AGU Fall Meeting Abstracts. In
*AGU Fall Meeting Abstract*,**OS31D-1799**. - Derakhti M., Kirby J.T., Banner M.L., Grilli S.T., Thomson J. 2018. A unified formulation for predicting the breaking strength of gravity water waves from deep to shallow water. In
*AGU Fall Meeting Abstract*,**OS31E-1826**. - Roarty H., T. Cook, L. Hazard, J. Harlan, D. George, S. Cosoli, L. Wyatt, E. Alvarez Fanjul, E. Terrill, M. Otero, J. Largier, S. Glenn, N. Ebuchi, B. Whitehouse, K. Bartlett, J. Mader, A. Rubio, L.P. Corgnati, C. Mantovani, A. Griffa, E. Reyes, P. Lorente, X. Flores-Vidal, K.J. Saavedra-Matta, P. Rogowski, S. Prukpitikul, S.-H. Lee, J.-W. Lai, C.-A. Guérin, J. Sanchez, B. Hansen and S. Grilli 2019. The Global High Frequency Radar Network.
*Frontiers in Marine Science*,**6**, 164, 1-26 (open access) doi:10.3389/fmars.2019.00164. - Guérin C.-A., Desmars, N., Grilli, S.T., Ducrozet, G., Pérignon, Y. and P. Ferrant 2018. An improved Lagrangian model for the time evolution of nonlinear surface waves.
*J. Fluid Mech.*,**876**, 527-552, doi:10.1017/jfm.2019.519. - Grilli S.T., Horrillo J. and S. Guignard 2020. Fully nonlinear potential flow simulations of wave shoaling over slopes: spilling breaker model and integral wave properties.
*Water Waves*,**2**(2), 263-297, doi:10.1007/s42286-019-00017-6 (published online 10/08/19). - Derakhti M., Kirby J.T., Thomson J., Banner M.L. and S.T. Grilli 2019. Predicting the breaking onset and strength of gravity water waves from deep to shallow water. Abstract presented at WISE 2019.
- M. Derakhti, J.T. Kirby, M.L. Banner, S.T. Grilli and J. Thomson 2020. A unified breaking onset criterion for surface gravity water waves in arbitrary depth.
*J. Geophys. Res.*,**125**(7), e2019JC015886, 28 pps, doi:10.1029/2019JC015886 (published online, 5/22/20). - Grilli A.R., Westcott G., Grilli S., Spaulding M.L., Shi F. and J.T.. Kirby. Assessing coastal risk from extreme storms with a phase resolving wave model: Case Study of Narragansett, RI, USA.
*Coastal Engineering*,**160**, 103735, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103735 (published online, 6/02/20). -
O'Reilly C., Janssen C.F. and S.T. Grilli 2020. A Lattice-Boltzmann-based perturbation method.

*Computers and Fluids*,**213**, 104723, doi:10.1016/j.compfluid.2020.104723 (published online 9/18/20). - Derakhti M., Kirby J.T., Thomson J., Grilli S.T. and M.L. Banner 2019. Predicting the breaking onset and strength of gravity water waves in arbitrary depth. In
*Bulletin of the American Physical Society*, Abstract**A02.00006**(oral presentation). - Kirby J.T., Derakhti M., Banner M.L., Grilli S.T. and J. Thomson 2020.
Predicting the Onset and Strength of Breaking of Surface Gravity Waves from Deep to Shallow Water. In
*AGU Ocean Sciences Meeting Abstract*,**CP11A-04**(oral presentation). - Grilli A.R., Westcott G., Gardner M., Shi F., Kirby J.T., Spaulding M.L. and S.T. Grilli 2020. Risk assessment and epistemic uncertainty at the residential scale as a function of wave and erosion model physics. In
*AGU Ocean Sciences Meeting Abstract*,**SI14D-1565**(poster). - Desmars N., F. Bonnefoy, S.T. Grilli, G. Ducrozet, Y. Perignon, C.-A. Guérin and P. Ferrant 2020. Experimental and numerical assessment of deterministic nonlinear ocean waves prediction algorithms using non-uniformly sampled wave gauges.
*Ocean Engineering*,**212**, 1037659, doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2020.107659 (published online, 6/24/20). - Derakhti M., Kirby J.T., Grilli S.T., Banner M.L. and J. Thomson J. 2020. Modeling wave breaking onset and dissipation in energy-conserving phase-resolving models. In
*14th World Congress on Computational Mechanics*(WCCM-ECCOMAS Congress 2020; 19-24 July 2020, Paris, France). Abstract. - Athanassoulis, G.A., Benoit, M., Clamond, D. and S.T. Grilli 2020. Foreword to the special issue on nonlinear waves over variable bathymetry.
*J. Ocean Eng. Mar. Energy*,**5**, 307-310, doi: 10.1007/s40722-019-00158-3 (published online 1/23/20). - Varing A., Filipot J.-F., Grilli S.T., Duarte R., Roeber V. and M. Yates 2021. A new kinematic breaking onset criterion for spilling and plunging breaking waves in shallow water.
*Coastal Engineering*,**164**, 103755, doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103755 (published online 9/22/20). - Harris J.C., Dombre E., Benoit M., Grilli S.T. and K.I. Kuznetsov 2022. Nonlinear time-domain wave-structure interaction: a parallel fast integral equation approach.
*Intl. J. Numer. Fluids*,**94**(2), 188-222, doi:10.1002/fld.5051 (accepted 9/24/21).

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