OCE514: Engineering wave mechanics and nearshore processes
Stephan T. Grilli, instructor
Associate Professor
Department of Ocean Engineering
University of Rhode Island
Narragansett Bay Campus
Narragansett, RI 02882, USA
tel. : (401) 874-6636
fax. : (401) 874-6837
http ://www.oce.uri.edu/~grilli
email : grilli@mistral.oce.uri.edu
Synopsis :
OCE514, offered in the fall, is both a first-year graduate course and
a professional elective for senior undergraduate students, which addresses
the fundamentals of engineering wave mechanics, and nearshore processes
(including both hydrodynamics and mechanics of sediment transport), necessary
in order to study both the natural and man-made changes in the coastal
zone, and to design the structural and non-structural protections against
these changes. The course material can also be used to study the desirable
and adverse impacts of possible solutions to coastal protection problems.
Prerequisite :
MCE455 or equivalent (e.g., MCE354 plus OCE307)
Required textbooks :
Dean, R.G. and Dalrymple, R.A. (1991) Water Wave Mechanics for Engineers
and Scientists. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Vol II. World
Scientific, Singapore.
Fredsoe, J. and Deigaard, R. (1993) Mechanics of Coastal Sediment
Transport. Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Vol III. World Scientific,
Singapore.
Additional textbooks :
Mei, C.C. (1989) The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves.
Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Vol I. World Scientific, Singapore.
Lamb, H. (1945) Hydrodynamics. Dover Publication, New York.
Batchelor, G.K. (1967) An Introduction to Fluid Dynamics. Cambridge
University Press, Cambridge.
Content :
In the following, T1 refers to the first required textbook and T2 to
the second one. Main items covered in OCE514 are as follows :
- Review of hydrodynamics (T1, p8-40) :
Conservation of mass. Surface stresses on a particle. Shear stresses. Translational
equation of motion. Standard forms of equation of motion. Review of vector
analysis. Velocity potential. Kelvin theorem. Streamfunction. Bernoulli
equation.
- Linear wave mechanics (T1, p41-77; T2, Ch. 1) :
Wave boundary value problem. Linearization of FSBC. Plane progressive wave.
Finite depth. Frequency dispersion. Superposition of waves and group velocity.
Wave energy.
- Engineering wave properties (T1, p78-130):
Velocity and pressure under a wave. Particle kinematics. Pressure measurements.
Superposition of waves, partial reflection. Group velocity and wave energy.
Wave refraction, shoaling and breaking. Wave diffraction.
- Nonlinear wave properties and nearshore hydrodynamics (T1, Ch. 10,11)
:
Nonlinear effects in short waves (mass transport, Stokes drift, momentum
flux). Depth and time-averaged equations of motion. Radiation stresses
in shoaling zone. Cross-shore dynamics : wave breaking, mean water level
set-up, wave set-down and undertow. Longshore dynamics : uniform current,
bottom frcition, lateral diffusion.
- Wavemaker theory (T1, p 170)
- Basic concepts of sediment transport (T2, Ch. 7) :
Transport modes. Sediment properties. Critical bed shear stress. Bed load
transportation. Development of coastal profile. Longshore sediment transport.
Modeling of coastline development.