Characteristics of solitary wave breaking induced by breakwaters

Journal of Waterway Port Coastal and Ocean Engineering, 120 (1), 74-92, 1994.

Stephan T. Grilli          and          M.A. Losada      and                F. Martin

Associate Professor                    Professor                                 Graduate student
Department of Ocean Eng.          Department of Ocean Eng.     UoS
niversity of Rhode Island             University of Cantabria
Narragansett, RI 02882, USA      Santander, 39005, Spain

Abstract :  

Laboratory experiments are presented for the breaking of solitary waves over breakwaters. A variety of behaviors is observed, depending on both breakwater and incident wave height : for emerged breakwaters, waves may collapse over the crown, or break backward during rundown; and for submerged breakwaters, waves may break forward or backward, downstream of the breakwater. The limit of overtopping and wave transmission and reflection coefficients are experimentally determined. It is seen, transmission is large over submerged breakwaters (55-90%), and may also reach 20 to 40% over emerged breakwaters. Computations using a fully nonlinear potential model, agree well with experimental results for the submerged breakwaters, particularly for the smaller waves (H/d<0.4). For emerged breakwaters, computations correctly predict the limit of overtopping, and the backward collapsing during rundown.

Keywords :

Solitary waves, Wave height, Breakwaters, Shore protection, Ocean engineering, Laboratories, Computer software, Nonlinear fluid mechanics, Boundary Element Method.

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