The Wave Calculator works in metric, taking deepwater wave height, period (seconds) or frequency (Hz), and wave direction (in degrees), and determining the wave length (L, in m), the wave number (k, in 1/m), wave celerity (C = L/T, in m/s), direction (degrees), shoaling and refraction coefficients (Ks, Kr) and the group velocity Cg at the shallow water depth you specify. The magnitude of the bottom velocity u_b is also calculated.

The calculations are based on the dispersion relationship for progressive linear water waves and Snell's Law for straight and parallel offshore contours. (Ref: Dean and Dalrymple, Water Wave Mechanics for Engineering and Scientists, World Scientific Press.)

Comments: Robert Dalrymple