OCE614 : Coastal Modeling
Stephan T. Grilli, instructor
Department of Ocean Engineering
University of Rhode Island
Narragansett Bay Campus
Narragansett, RI 02882, USA
tel. : (401) 874-6636
fax. : (401) 874-6837
email : email@example.com
OCE614 offered in the Spring, addresses coastal modeling problems, i.e.,
the solution of coastal problems involving water waves, currents and sediment
transport, using computer models. Fundamentals of the theories and methods
used for developing computer models are covered, and actual computer models
are used for illustration, and for homework assignments.
OCE514 or equivalent
Required textbooks :
Mei, C.C. (1989) The Applied Dynamics of Ocean Surface Waves.
Advanced Series on Ocean Engineering - Vol I. World Scientific, Singapore.
Additional textbooks :
Selected publications handed out during lectures (journal and proceeding
In the following, T1 and T2 refer to the primary and secondary textbooks.
Main topics covered in OCE614 are as follows :
- Introduction to Boundary Element Method (T2) :
Numerical solution of field problems. Finite difference, finite elements,
boundary integral methods. Various BIE methods, Green's function. Singular
BIE. Discretized BIE (BEM). Numerical integrations.
- Nonlinear wave theories (T1, T2) :
Long waves : Nonlinear shallow water equations, Boussinesq and KdV equations.
Solitary and cnoidal waves. Fourier wave theories.
- Linear wave refraction-diffraction (T1, Ch. 3 and T2) :
Geometrical optics approximation for wave refraction. Mild slope equation.
Parabolic wave equation. Hybrid methods. A hybrid FEM model for wave refraction-diffraction.
- Harbor oscillations (T1, Ch. 5):
Formulation of the problem. Radiation damping. Simple rectangular harbor
with a narrow entrance. Narrow bay. A FEM model for harbor oscillations.
BIE and BEM solutions.
- Nonlinear unsteady wave models (T2) :
Formulation of the problem. Modeling of deep water wave breaking, wave
shoaling and breaking in shallow water, wave-structure interaction and
wave impact on vertical structures (submerged and emerged breakwaters,
slender ships). A BEM model for fully nonlinear waves (fundamentals of
the BEM and application to nonlinear waves).